Sorry to hear this, Peter.
There have been a few threads over the years about this problem. Here is probably the best answer for you…
Katy McG
Member
Posts: 161
Hi All
Has anyone changed or mended the locks on the back door (the storage comparment)? The catch doesn’t turn on ours anymore. By catch, I mean the metal bar that slides into the van when you turn the black, oval handle.
Advice or thoughts welcome!
August 14, 2013 at 11:14 AM
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Dave & Sharon
Member
Posts: 97
One of ours has snapped Katy, so I’m going to have a go at replacing it. This place http://www.motorcaravanning.co.uk/shopuk/zadi_locks.htm sells Zadi locks which look the same (for £16.95 – scroll down about half way on the page). Has anyone fitted anything more robust?
August 16, 2013 at 12:20 AM
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Nick & Joc
Member
Posts: 55
I fixed mine shortly after we had the van. The seller ordered a new lock and it was delivered to me. Fairly easy to fit if I remember correctly. I did have to remove an extension piece from the original at fix it to the repalcement.
August 17, 2013 at 5:39 PM
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Catriona
Member
Posts: 26
We replaced ours a couple of years ago through Hymer UK who were then at Preston. They emailed us an exploded diagram of the parts and ordered them from Germany. If you can find out who have replaced the Preston people, Hymer in Germany probably still have them.
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August 19, 2013 at 2:18 PM
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Katy McG
Member
Posts: 161
Dave, did you have any joy with the Zadi locks?
Thanks everyone for replies, by the way.
August 28, 2013 at 1:53 PM
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Dave & Sharon
Member
Posts: 97
Katy McG at August 28, 2013 at 1:53 PM
Dave, did you have any joy with the Zadi locks?
Thanks everyone for replies, by the way.
Hi Katy
I haven’t ordered them yet – keep meaning to double-check dimensions – but will let you know
Cheers
Dave
September 4, 2013 at 8:33 PM
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Katy McG
Member
Posts: 161
It’s one of those unappealing tasks, isn’t it!
September 19, 2013 at 11:44 AM
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Dave & Sharon
Member
Posts: 97
Hi folks
In the end I had my local garage fit two new locks when they were servicing the Exsis. I bought the locks from www.motorcaravanning.co.uk
Description:Zadi Small Push Lock – Black,
Item no:N74080
Unit price:16.95 GBP
and
Description:ZADI Compartment Lock Body-only (no barrel/keys) 180
Black,
Item no:RLV931195
Unit price:6.95 GBP
Cheers
Dave
May 16, 2014 at 11:43 AM
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Fred & Gill
Member
Posts: 463
Well done Dave, Looks like another fix to get our heads around at the ‘meet’.
Pity that Nick and Joc havn’t indicated that they can come, as they seem to have replaced it themselves (DIY).
Fred
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Ruby
May 16, 2014 at 6:14 PM
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Tom & Carol Mulcahy
Member
Posts: 178
I replaced one of the locks years ago because it broke. The reason I think was the rear door seal was dry and held the door fast. I now rub silcone grease on the door seal. I ‘grease’ all of the seals on the Exsis. I no longer get black rubber marks and sticking windows and doors. This also prevents the problem with the inner part of the Hyki roof light coming adrift.
May 17, 2014 at 10:51 AM
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Fred & Gill
Member
Posts: 463
Managed to break off a rear door handle from the lock – its been dodgy and -5 overnight whilst camping this week didn’t help, too much force whilst frozen!
Read some very helpful information above and also by Harvey topic & Photos ‘Fitting Boot Handle’ June 2016.
Hoping this was going to be a straightforward removal and order complete units (Zadi N74080, thanks Dave & co)
My problem this very cold morning is:….( I have a detatched/broken handle), but could release the inside latch by turning the groove inside the lock body)
I have removed the nut, metal latch and washers from inside the boot door
I have removed the 2 x screws from the plastic boss outside and tapped the shaft inside the boot and eventually managed to prise the boss outwards revealing more of the lock body…..but I can’t pull the unit out because there seems to be another boss or support on the inside.
Am I correct in this assumption? and do I now have to remove the whole Plastic rear trim as per Harvey’s post. Harvey mentions that there is something that the round plastic supports (wastepipe) sits on and it looks like that in his 1st picture
If so, I guess this could be a fine weather job and make do with only one locking handle for now.
ADvice from the experienced please as I don’t want to go trying to force off any boss on the inside and leave it floating about.
Fred
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Ruby
December 1, 2016 at 1:15 PM
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Barry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
Oh bad luck, Fred. And at this time of year too. (Minus 5 here last night )
I’m afraid I can’t assist, but would just ask that you take a load of photos for possible inclusion in a ‘How To’ later?
Good luck, chum. I think your idea is sound, of waiting until better weather, or an alternative suggestion – reverse into a friendly (large!) heated garage!
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Barry & Maggie
December 1, 2016 at 2:38 PM
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JP
Member
Posts: 38
I too broke a rear door/locker lock so ordered the Zadi replacement which arrived with a new barrel and keys, the barrel can be removed with the lock in unlocked position and the key inserted, you will then see a small tab that can be pushed in allowing you to withdraw the barrel. I did the same on the old lock handle and inserted the old barrel into the new lock to allow me to keep one key for all. You can hire a removal tool which is basically a key that also pulls in the small tab but this is not necessary. I disassembled the rear panel and locks but found it the extension pieces that fit on the end of the zadi locks to be very stiff and this is what caused the original to break. I decided while I was doing the job to order this extension piece and thought I would do both sides at the same time. I contacted Hymer and found that these small extensions are �£176.52 each !! so I will be soaking mine to free them off before refitting. Can I recommend that if anyones rear door locks are becoming stiff to attend to them before its an expensive repair. James
January 12, 2017 at 3:02 PM
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Fred & Gill
Member
Posts: 463
Thanks JP, Good advice, that seems to be exactly the same problem that I have. My near side lock had been very stiff for some time so I had tried all sorts of lubricants and only marginally improved it – the -5 freezing weather when camping in Builth Wells at the end of November finally broke it. Harvey posted some good info – I think that I posted the link in my previous thread. Please update us with your fix because there could be others soon with the same problem. My fix will have to wait until the warmer weather! Don’t know what is going on with this site as I am writing this in a little box about 30mm x10mm on my IPad . I haven’t bothered to order my locks yet Fred
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Ruby
January 13, 2017 at 8:36 AM
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Barry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
Excellent advice, JP.
I have a new (to me) problem with my rear door lock, gas locker side. I think one of my gas bottles has moved slightly, despite the securing strap, and the edge of the bottle is stopping the lock undoing. That’s what I surmise the problem is, as the lock won’t turn sufficiently far enough to release it. I’ll try “jerking” the bottle forward by braking sharply on a small steep hill near me, being careful of following traffic, naturally! If that cannot cure it, I can see no other option than boring a hole in the rear door where I can physically push the bottle away, then cover the hole with a Hymer sticker or summat. Darned nuisance.
But not as big a nuisance as not being able to post new Threads on this site. “Webs” (who run the site) have been carrying out a major update which has resulted in every new Thread I’ve tried to post being rejected. I cannot even post an explanation for all of you in case you’ve been trying and failing to creat a new Thread. It looks as though updating existing Threads is still OK, which is why I’m writing this. Anyway, my apologies to one and all and I hope the site will be back to normal VERY soon.
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Barry & Maggie
January 13, 2017 at 12:29 PM
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Fred & Gill
Member
Posts: 463
Further to my first reporting that I had broken a rear door lock handle (see post above 1/12/16), I can now report that I have fixed it and can now pass on some hints and pictures.
Please note also comments above from JP regarding good advice not to let handles stiffen up – it would be good to hear back from JP if he separated the Hymer extension boss – I didn’t bother as you can see in my notes below.
There is also useful information by Harvey Mods & Enh/Fitting Boot Handle 6/June/2016- its page 2 ) explaining removal of rear plastic boot trim and note point 7. regarding repair of spacer pieces. See also his Photo Gallery photos 3 & 11.
If I can get the photos in the right order you will see:-
1st Photo – The Hymer extension piece gunged/corroded inside plastic boss that goes through boot door, thats why I couldn’t pull handle and lock body out without removing the plastic trim.
2nd Photo – Better view
3rd Photo – The good side (offside) also showing plastic spacer and Allen Key in grubb screw.
4thPhoto – The broken plastic spacer that allowed the elements to corrode the extension piece in the plastic base boss that fits on door. The
broken pieces were glued together inside 32mm waste pipe as described by Harvey.
5th Photo – The cleaned up Hymer extension boss showing grubb screw. It is alongside the nerw handle.
NOW – I couldn’t remove the grubb screw on the corroded boss, but I could on the other one. However, it would not shift easily and I didnt know if it screwed or slid off and as I didn’t want to cause damage to the good handle- I left it.
Therefore I didn’t drill out the grubb screw from the corroded one and decided to use the whole of the old assembly now that it moved freely and to fit just the new handle and change the barrell lock to keep the original keys.
Fred
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Ruby
April 26, 2017 at 4:01 PM
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Barry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
Thanks, for all that, Fred.
This can happen to any one of us, so regular lubrication using an appropriate lubricant would appear to be essential.
WD40… This is an excellent penetrant… ie it penetrates corroded items and breaks the corrosion but… it does not lubricate (other than a minuscule amount).
So, use WD40 to penetrate and break apart items that are seized but then immediately apply an appropriate lubricant, ranging from light oil, silicon grease to heavy grease, depending upon the application.
Fred (and other’s) lock problem would appear to be a good case in point. Getting lubrication into this unit appears to be essential but difficult.
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Barry & Maggie
April 26, 2017 at 9:39 PM
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Pablicito
Member
Posts: 8
Unfortunately one of my rear locker handle is gone… I tried to find a spare part, but it seems not so easy. I cannot understand if I have to separate the locker itself from the Hymer spacer, since the Zadi spare part is far shorter than the complete Hymer mounted locker. If the answer is yes, hot to do it?
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July 6, 2018 at 3:51 PM
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Barry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
I believe there is a grub screw that holds the handle to Hymer’s extension rod, Pablo. Fred had problems with it I believe. One of the guys who has done this job will be along to tell you how to do it, I’m sure.
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Barry & Maggie
July 6, 2018 at 5:15 PM
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Fred & Gill
Member
Posts: 463
Hi Pablo,
I have been away and just returned home – no time at the moment to research the previous threads and photos on this topics, but I will try later today.
Meanwhile if this helps….
If the hymer extension tubes are free within the plastic spacer tube of the rear panel and having removed the angled locking arm the unit should pull out complete – if not you will have to remove the rear panel to access them.
The plastic handle with the locking barrel removes by undoing the grubb screw.
The extension piece fits over the handle square bar and is held by a grubb screw, which may be corroded and difficult to remove without drilling out.
Secondly even if you remove the grubb screw the extension piece sleeve may still be corroded onto the bar of the original handle – this will need to be soaked with a penetrating oil……..mine was still stuck so rather than force or break/ damage the unit – I used the original unit still fused together and only changed the handle and swapped my old cylinder lock into the new handle unit to keep the keys the same as original
I will review this and original post/ photos later and get back
Fred
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Ruby
July 10, 2018 at 1:40 PM
cito
Member
Posts: 8
Hi Ruby,
thanks for your information! As you can see in the pictures I already removed the complete locker.
The plastic handle is broken, so there wasn’t any need to unscrew a grubb screw
The extension piece over the handle square bar is stuck: a friend of mine is trying to drilling out and remove the grubb screw, but I still don’t have an answer from him.
My main problem is what to buy, evoiding to unecessary pieces. I’m waiting an answer from Travelworld and even Hymer in Germany…
Again, thank you very much for your help
Paolo
July 11, 2018 at 3:15 PM
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Fred & Gill
Member
Posts: 463
Hi Pablicito,
The replacement lock can be found on the Internet previous threads state that the lock is
Zadi N74080,
The Hymer extension piece screws directly onto the bar after removing the locking tab from the new unit
The problem may well be that after your friend has Drillled out the grub screw on the extension piece it will still be fused/ corroded in place – there could be a danger of rendering the extension piece useless by snapping off the original bar or other damage…..
That is why I left mine in place and only used the new handle and external fitting and changed the lock – see earlier thread of JP also.
Of course if you successfully remove the extension piece you will be able to use all of the new Zadi lock unit – but you may wish to change the locking barrel to use original keys – or you could order two lock and replace both by ordering the same key. I have just done a search and you can buy a new part here motorcaravaning.co.uk for £19 currently.
I made new spacers and everything operates smoothly
Fred
Best wishes
Ruby
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