And here’s a great post on how to do it by Harvey… This refers to fitting a central handle to the boot lid but includes some pictures of lock removal and refitting. There are some great photos with Harvey’s post and I’ll endeavour to get these posted here too – I need the computer for that.
Harvey
Member
Posts: 41
Fitting a boot Handle
1. The Handle was purchased from the Kenmore Caravans ebay site http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/380589555869?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649. My thanks to Dave for the information – post August 2014.
2. I removed the door lock securing tabs from the boot locks, (20mm open ended spanner required) – note position of washers for reassembly.
3. Then unscrewed the posi screws from each side of the locks, undoing them symmetrically made it easier to lift the lock as the screws are removed. Pulled the locks out from the door.
4. Removed the number plate and then the 4 screws underneath it (Mine was glued on and it snapped so had to be replaced).
Outer boot cover removed
5. I positioned a stool alongside the door to support the raised section once it was removed.
Cover placed on stool
6. Then I lifted the Exsis garage door into a horizontal position, a gentle tap along the bottom of the door released it from the securing clamps along the top, lifting the bottom of the raised section of the door as I did so.
7. There are two plastic spacer lugs under the raised section which space off the locks and stop the lock securing screws from distorting the raised section. These were split into several pieces when I removed them; the plastic had “broken down” with time. Fortunately I discovered that these fit exactly inside 1.25” (32mm) soil waste pipe, so two pieces were cut and the original spacers glued inside the waste pipe. The new wall thickness still “just” allows the securing screws to locate in the rear door lock sections, whilst the original inners locate over the raised base sections of the lock.
The plastic spacer tubes were in pieces, fortunately they neatly fit into 1.25″ plastic waste pipe.
8. Examination of the brackets clipping the top of the raised section in place reveals corrosion taking place, this is because of galvanic action between the (cadmium plated?) brackets and the stainless securing screws, I coated them all with marine grease to slow this down. This corrosion was also evident between the stainless screws and the aluminium of the door, again this was greased up.
9. I glued a length of thick wall 5mm x 50mm trunking with “Stixall” to the underside of the raised section, to provide support for the handle, then clamped and left it 12hr to allow it to set fully.
trunking fitted and glues in place to brace up the cover and spread the load
10. Turning the raised section over I positioned masking tape along the base to make marking out easier. Measure out the centre line of the section and marked out where the holes would be needed for the handle.
Masking tape used for marking out
Handle trial fitted
11. Using a cordless drill (less aggressive and lighter than a mains drill) I drilled two 2mm holes through the section and the trunking, then checked alignment with the handle. Holes were then drilled out to 6mm.
12. The new boot handle incorporates two M6 tapped alloy inserts, since I was using stainless steel screws this will create a situation where galvanic action can occur; to slow down the resulting corrosion I coated the screws and the inserts with marine grease. I also used the grease on the large “penny” washers used under the M6 s/s screws to spread the load, as these were mild steel.
Handle bolts in place
13. I also made two gaskets from oil impregnated paper to fit between the handle and the raised section of the door (though these are probably unnecessary).
14. The two soft plastic inserts that cover the holes in the boot handle are very fiddly to fit; I used a rubber mallet to coax them carefully into position.
Plastic spacers fitted, ready for refitting the cover
Clinch nuts fitted for screwing the number plate into position
picture of trunking in position on the cover
Showing the galvanic corrosion, this is caused by dissimilar metals in close proximity getting wet.
More galvanic corrosion on the door.
15. Replaced the top section onto the door, fit the spacing plastic lugs, screwed the whole thing together, job complete
—
Harvey
June 6, 2016 at 10:19 AM
Edit Delete Flag Quote & Reply
Barry & Maggie
Administrator
Posts: 1280
A first-class “How To..”, thanks, Harvey. The photo guide in Photo Gallery is excellent too.
This has given me the kick up the backside that I’ve needed, as I bought a handle a year or so ago and have never got round to fitting it!
Thanks again, Harvey. Great stuff!
—
Barry & Maggie
